Nyepi – the day of silence

March 19th marked the beginning of year 1929 on the Balinese calendar. The ceremonies actually began two days earlier, with most Balinese going to temple or to the beach to pray that the evil spirits would not come to Bali and cause problems. The second day is for the ogoh-ogoh. Every community had spent the last couple of weeks building these giant statues that symbolize evil spirits. What began as a simple bamboo frame was built upon, layer by layer, until the finished product emerged – evil spirits ranging from traditional ones that you would see in Barong dances, to mohawked punk rockers waving their middle finger in the air, to a freaky thing that looked exactly like the creature from The Grudge! Each ogoh was mounted on a checkerboard bamboo structure and carried by a group of 12 to 15 young boys or men. They were carried down the lanes formed by the crowd that had gathered on the freeway. Traffic was backed up on the entire island as the ogoh-ogoh, accompanied by their own musicians, alternately danced, ran, and sauntered through the crowds on their way to the beach where they were finally burned. The whole ogoh-ogoh event symbolizes the banishment of the evil spirits that would take place the next day.

By midnight, all of Bali begins to settle down. For the next 24 hours, there is absolutely no human activity on the entire island! No one leaves their home. The sky above the island becomes a no-fly zone to all aircraft. Traditionally, no one is supposed to make any noise or use any artificial light. The day is supposed to be spent in meditation. During those 24 hours, the evil spirits return to Bali but when they see and hear nothing, they assume the island is uninhabited and they leave for another year.

We may have talked, used candles after dark, and even used electricity to listen to music for a while, but the silence and calm in a place that normally veers toward the chaotic was powerful. The birds and frogs were not drowned out by motorbikes or blaring music. You could actually even hear the leaves rustling in the trees. And the stars that night were remarkable – probably the best I’ve ever seen, and I was standing in the middle of a city!!! With absolutely nothing to do, I was more relaxed and at peace than I have been in a long time.

After such a beautiful day, the whole world seems so noisy in comparison. Part of me wishes that we could have Nyepi every month – imagine how peaceful people would be if there were regular relaxation periods with nothing to do!

Miscellaneous Thoughts and Observations

A couple of weeks ago, I finally got a motorbike! While a bit scared at first, I have found that driving here in Bali is much like driving on the road that is life, and I have learned a couple of very important lessons. In life and in driving, you must pay close attention to everything going on around you and be aware of changes – large and small. And you must not hesitate, just go or you may miss a perfect opportunity!

My mum and I took our pembantu (housekeeper), Iluh, to dinner one night on the tourist strip in Legian. We made “sweet memories” (i.e. we took way too many goofy posing photographs, with the Asian-style peace signs!) and got to learn about Iluh’s life outside of our home. After getting pregnant a couple of years ago, she was forced to marry the father of the child, Made. That child was eventually miscarried. Despite Iluh’s emotional suffering and her in-laws’ disdain at her inability to carry a child to term, she stayed with Made and eventually became pregnant again. Since their healthy daughter’s birth, Made has not been able to hold down a job, while Iluh slaves away at two. Iluh and his family argue constantly about how their daughter, Ninda, should be fed and clothed and educated, all the while Iluh is forced to give up all her hard-earned money to them. Iluh eventually left Made and went back to live with her mum, which has caused its own problems. According to Balinese custom, when a woman marries, she is supposed to live in the community of her husband’s family. Iluh’s mother’s banjar (community association) can therefore collect as much money as they see fit because she is not living where she should be. Iluh continues to fight with Made and his family, but divorce is not really an option as it is too expensive and can cause even more problems with both banjars of the people involved. Iluh hardly gets to see her daughter, as Balinese custom also holds that children are the property of the father and his family. Here I have been, complaining about what to do with my life, that I have too many options and don’t know what to do. I bet Iluh would do anything to be in my shoes; I have the entire world in front of me, with my “beautiful white skin” and my only limitations being my ability to dream. And unfortunately, Iluh is not the only person trapped in her life. I keep meeting Balinese people who have their own unhappy stories, having to go through life not being able to escape the lives set for them. I wonder if it is their contact with the West that has made so many Balinese realize that they are not happy with their lives, that there are people out there in the States or Canada or even nearby Australia, who actually get to chose their own destinies. Is this the new colonization? Spreading ideals of individuality and freedom that do not fit with traditional cultures? I feel almost guilty of my freedom, which allows me to sit in such a beautiful house, reading, swimming, not having to work, and spending my days instead daydreaming and researching possibilities for my future. How did I deserve this while Iluh doesn’t?

The cultural homogeneity here is striking. There are really only religious differences; there are Hindu, Muslim, Christian, and Buddhist Balinese. But physically, everyone looks the same. A fact that makes for a lot of attention as a white person – be it good or bad! Everywhere I go, I hear annoying offers of transportation, tours, and demands to look in people’s shop (Sun Chee will agree with this!). But no matter how tanned I get, my whiteness also makes it quite easy to make friends. I’ve quickly made friends with the DVD salesman on the beach, the servers at a couple of restaurants, and musicians at bars. There are so few white people that I guess those of us that stick around for a while are definitely recognizable – especially when we go to the same restaurants and shops all the time!! It’s such a stark contrast to Canada where everyone is different and yet still Canadian, and you don’t get a lot of attention just based on the color of your skin. It has definitely taken me a while to get used to the attention, but blocking out the bellowing hawkers is still a work in progress!

Several clubs and bars in Kuta (the really touristy part of Bali) charge Balinese a cover charge, and quite a high fee too if you take into consideration their average monthly income! And of course, white people get in free. My Balinese friends were rightfully quite pissed off about this, as was I. What are these bars trying to do? Piss off Balinese even more about the segregation between tourists and themselves? There is already an underlying (but very noticeable) tension about Balinese hanging out with tourists, and the cultural and economic differences between them. Keeping locals out of bars in their own country is only going to make people more angry about these differences, which, dare I say, are some of the same feelings that probably led to the two Bali bombings in the first place! I’m sure that the bombings are the reason for the cover charge for Balinese, but that’s blatantly discriminatory. And for the tourists, why would they want to hang out in a club that virtually blocks locals from entering (since most are not going to pay 1/10 of their salary just to get in!)? The tourists could be in a bar back home or anywhere else in the world and have the same experience! So I’ve started boycotting the clubs that demand a cover charge from Balinese and have opted instead to hang out at my Balinese friends’ local drinking hole… which is pretty literally that! Two pool tables, some chairs and a raised platform to sit on, and really cheap and good arak! A great night out there, with food and drinks and cigarettes (the most expensive of the three!), only comes to about 6 bucks! And it’s way more fun! :)

No longer a beach bum

I finally got a job! I’m going to be teaching online English conversation courses and subbing at an internationally-recognized school!! It sounds like a lot of fun. So I’ll finally be able to put my TESOL Certificate to use! It's funny though how quickly I've gotten used to not working. The idea of having a job again taking up so much of my time is a bit depressing. But at least I'm in a beautiful place to enjoy my time off!

Surfer Girl!

I finally did it! I went surfing for my first time and it was SSOOOOOO much fun! We rented longboards (much easier for beginners) on Kuta beach and were practicing in the breaking waves (also easier for beginners!). I was so amazed at how fast it feels like you are moving and how huge and looming some of the waves are. I rode a lot of the waves because it was less scary to ride the big ones than to watch them approach and then have to go through them! In an hour, I managed to get up on my feet, but I was still hanging on to the sides of the board. Supposedly not bad for my first try – better than my mum at least!! I can see it being totally addictive, despite the liters of sea water that I snorted up my nose and I can’t wait to go again!

Arak Attack

Arak is a local rice wine that varies immensely in its quality. Some are really quite good, while others make you really sick. And at dinner the other night I ordered two “arak attacks” (arak mixed with sprite and grenadine)… normally a decent amount of alcohol comparable to two mixed drinks at home. But this was BAD arak. I was totally sloshed by the end of the first one – don’t ask me why I ordered another! And just like tequila, the effects just get worse over time. By the time I got home, I felt like I had drunk at least 6 drinks and smoked way too much!! I was sweating and nauseous and couldn’t even fall asleep I felt so shitty. They don’t call it an arak attack for nothing!

The next morning I swore that I wouldn’t drink arak anymore. But that didn’t last very long! That night, Shawna and I went out to a reggae bar and ended up drinking “jungle juice” (arak, vodka and passion fruit juice!) with a couple of guys from the band. At least it was good arak and no one was sick! :)

Back in Bali

We stopped in Kuala Lumpur on our way home – yes, I instinctively referred to Bali as home! – and it was strangely nice being in a developed city. Comforting, even. I think I kind of miss the luxuries and the familiarity of Western cities.

It is even stranger being back in Bali. It feels like being home, but it also feels safe and emotionally neutral in comparison to Cambodia – no recent and tangible memories of death. Well, at least nothing comparable to the widespread genocide under the Khmer Rouge. Despite how safe and comfortable Bali feels, Cambodia lingers on my mind. I applied for a human rights education position with Live and Learn, an organization works to promote access to land and forests for the Cambodian people. I felt grossly unqualified, but I know that my heart is in it and that I could learn fast enough to fill the position.

I didn’t think it would be Cambodia that would shake the human rights activist in me awake again. But it has. In my last months in Montreal, running away from my responsibilities with Students for a Free Tibet, I thought I had lost the passion and the drive to do human rights work. My experiences in Cambodia proved to me that my passion is still there. Maybe all it took was a break and a change of scenery to make me feel it again.

Some photos for your consideration

Originally uploaded by jspan.

Ubud - shopping and Mansion House and monkeys, oh my!!

We spent the last couple of days in a small hippy town in the mountains, hoping that it would be a reprieve from the blistering heat in Sanur. But not so! It was just as hot... which made trying on clothes that much more of a sticky venture!! We spent nearly the whole first day shopping anyways. The entire town is full of little galleries and shops filled with hand-made everything: clothes, jewelery, carved anything, leatherwork (shoes, bags, jewelery...), carvings, paintings (even Tibetan thangkas!!), and of course, the usual market crap. It was nice for a change to go into a store and see price tags - no bartering required!!

After a long day of shopping, we bought some Mansion House vodka (a "delicious" local brand of alcohol that tastes more like rubbing alcohol!) and started drinking at our hotel. We decided that in case the kecak show that we had bought tickets for was really crappy, we would take a bottle of premixed Mansion House and mango juice with us. But the show was actually pretty good - not that it stoped us from drinking our "mango juice". At the end of the show, two guys come out with a big bad of coconut husks which they proceed to light on fire (for the fire walker dude who came out moments later). As they are dowsing the husks with a clear liquid, my mum points and proclaims quite loudly "Mansion House!!!" We giggle to ourselves and keep drinking :)

The second day was more shopping interspersed with stops for nice coffee - the Nescafe 3-in-1 ("coffee," sugar and creamer, all in one convenient portable one-serving package!) that we had for breakfast had not satisfied our caffeine cravings. In the afternoon, Sun Chee and I also spent a couple of hours in a nice air-conditioned jewelery studio for a course in jewelery making. We each made a ring - both of which are quite impressive for our first attempts! We also went to another dance in the evening - this time, legong and barong dance. I had seen it last time I was here, but the setting this time was a lot more impressive - in front of a palace in the centre of Ubud.

Our final day in Ubud, I said that we weren't allowed to shop anymore, but then by total fluke found an expensive (by Bali standards!) but beautiful top! Next stop: the "sacred" Monkey Forest Sanctuary. We had heard stories of mischievious monkeys in other parts of Bali who steal glasses, but were not prepared for what was in store for me. The forest was pretty cool, lots of huge old trees with dangling branches and tons of moss-covered carvings. On our way across a bridge, Sun Chee stopped to take a picture of a monkey sitting on the railing. But with a lot of attitude, the monkey turned around when she pointed the camera at her. Sun Chee waited and finally got the shot, and as we were passing the monkey, she jumped onto my bag. The monkeys here seem to expect to be fed by the visitors, they were trying to get into people's bags and would even reach into their pockets looking for food. But I was startled by the monkey jumping on me - who I'm sure just wanted some food - so I raised my hand to push it off. It snarled at me so I tried to push it off and it bit my arm!!! When we went to the front desk to ask if the monkeys were healthy, the man took me into the office to clean my war wound with alcohol and iodine. Since he had his little first aid kit there, we assumed it must be a frequent occurence there! Sacred monkeys, my ass!! We called the expat clinic when we got home, and I have all my shots so there's nothing to be worried about. The lady did tell us that they've had quite a few calls about monkey bites though!

I sure don't think monkeys are that cute anymore!

It's all about connections

We haven't been doing much lately... eating, drinking, reading, swimming, being sick :(

But I have been trying to figure out what exactly it is that I am going to be doing with myself for the next... who knows how long. Claire has talked to the director of the Bali International School and has told her that I am interested in working as a substitute teacher. She has also offered to send me some of her French students that I could tutor - an interesting idea because then I could follow along with Claire's curriculum and learn how to put together a plan for an entire session rather than individual lessons like I did with my TESOL course in Montreal.

On the anthropology front, I met a woman whose husband is working on his masters degree in anthropology who might be willing to let me tag along on some of his interview excursions. He is researching how Balinese culture has been influenced by modern technology and global culture, an issue that already came to my mind as I watch the local people ride motorbikes to temple ceremonies in traditional dress while talking on their cell phones.

I've decided to relax for now... enjoy the holiday life and not feel bad for doing so little. And then after Christmas and a couple of weeks in Cambodia (and possibly Thailand), I'll follow up on these leads and get back to my usual busy self! ;)

Balinese communal massages?!

Yes, Bali is definetly unique... even in massage styles! At the lakeside cottages on the active volcano, Mount Batur, we were convinced by some local ladies to go for massages... only $5 for an hour, with fresh coconut oil. Sounds great! But as we enter the small room, we see two beds... "the small bodies on the double bed, and the big body on the single bed!" And then the orders to undress with no privacy... there were 5 women standing around and a bunch of kids and dogs running in and out of the room! Thank god the other massagees were my mum and our friend. I found it funny: for being so conservative in the way they dress on a day-to-day basis, Balinese people are very comfortable with nakedness. And here we are, in short shorts and tank tops, complaining about getting naked in front of strangers. I think it will be very difficult to get used to the bua da da massages... that's just plain wierd!! But damn, those women have strong hands!!!

I'm having a hard time getting used to the idea that I'm going to be here for a year. The last time I drove down these roads, it felt like such a short visit to such an amazing and beautiful place. I kinda felt the same way when I got here... seeing my mum again and trying to get used to the new cultural and humid(!) climate... but this is my new home for as long as I want it to be!

I guess it's hard to feel at home when I haven't even had time to fully unpack my bags! As soon as I got here, we were off on our adventure to the north to see our Indonesian friend's home town and all the celebrations for Kuningan, a festival where the souls of family members return to spend 10 days with their living family. In our sarongs and formal-ish dress, we were welcomed into the temple and blessed with holy water and rice by a very old and very beautiful priestess.

I think Sun Chee is settling in a bit now... she's actualy quite relaxed! And we've decided to take it slow and stay around Bali instead of rushing off on a hectic 2-week whirlwind trip though Myanmar. I guess it will have to wait for a later trip. But it means that I'll actually be able to unpack my bags!!